Frequently Asked Questions
Most common:
About 3D Prints, Models & Processes
Premium Resin is a bit more durable and flexible that basic, cheap resin that can snap like dried pasta. Premium Resin is recommended for models that have skinny, thin, or protruding features that might snag or snap if the print falls to a hard surface.
The Regular Resin I'm now using is a plant based resin that is also slightly flexible, but a little softer, and less durable. This is recommended for thicker, larger, sturdier models.
In both cases, these are still resin prints, and neither are completely indestructible. If you can't decide which material is best for your print, message me!
My current resin printers produce 2K HD resolution prints. When the settings are dialed in correctly, which comes from experience, details are more pronounced and layer lines are hardly noticeable. If you've received 3D resin prints from other vendors and were disappointed with how "swollen" or "puffy" they looked, it's because the settings were wrong...
FDM (filament) prints are usually for the larger models I offer, where the details are less complex. While I typically print at .04mm layer height (very fine), prints may have still some visible layer lines and/or rough patches that need to be sanded, but a lot of the times, these become less noticeable after priming and painting. I also try to position the parts in a way where the rough patches occur in less visible areas (like under the body).
Yes, I try to clean, sand, and make sure the prints I send pass my QC before sending.
The process of resin printing has a few steps where it might create subtle flaws, like where the supports needed during printing are removed once printed. This may leave little divots on the model. I try to sand or smooth these spots out, but can't always see every single instance of them. Usually these become more visible during painting. They're easy to clean, just scrape the areas with an Xacto blade or use sand paper.
For FDM prints, I try to sand and smooth as best I can, without going into a deep dive. A lot of rougher areas will be hidden or become less noticeable once you paint it.
If I feel it's safe to do so, you'll find an option to have the model assembled in add-ons. Models that do no have this option are either printed whole, is too delicate or too large to ship assembled and will be shipped in pieces.
There's a chance some parts might detach during the shipping process and would need to be glued back on. A gel type superglue is recommended to have on hand, just in case.
Some of the larger prints might have gaps where pieces are glued together and need to be filled in (green stuff putty is good for this). It just depends on how much the gaps might bother you.
I only print whichever color(s) I'm currently running. A lot of the times these colors are chosen by their performance and/or availability, and not because of the color. This goes for both resin and FDM (filament) prints.
CURRENT COLORS:
Premium Resin - CHARCOAL GREY, semi-transparent.
This durable resin comes in other, more transparent colors that may be used where it makes sense (clear risers, spectral wings, air elements, etc).
Regular Resin - GRAY
A plant-based resin that comes in other colors, but grey has proven to have the best results.
FDM Prints - BLACK
Typically done in black, but can also vary as I test other filaments. Some larger prints that require multiple piece MAY include parts with different colors.
All prints should be primed before painting.
As a quick guide of the Collections of Models I offer from artists I'm licensed to print:
If you're looking for a particular scale, let me know! I can double check a model and/or print at the size you're looking for.
After you have received your print(s)
If this happened, I apologize! I try to pack minis as safe as possible, but accidents do occasionally happen.
First make sure that if you purchased an assembled miniature that the breaks didn't happen at the glue points. In some cases, where parts were glued on (usually as wrist joints, wing joints, or the feet glued to the base), the glue might not have held during shipping and the parts just need to be re-glued.
If the print was broken anywhere else, then we'll go through the process of filing a claim with the shipping carrier and I'll try to get a replacement print to you.
In most cases, prints aren't truly broken, they just need a little more glue.
I recommend using a gel type super glue like Loctite or Gorilla Glue. The watery super glues don't suction the parts in place very well.
I also recommend finding something to prop your mini and pieces against so that pieces can be held in place while the glue cures. Otherwise, if you have patience to hold the pieces together yourself, then by all means, go for it!

